The other week I visited my family back home for the first time since lockdown. The air feels so much fresher than in London and it was so nice to be home for a little while. So I thought I’d write a little post about a local landmark we’re quite proud of.

In between Durham and Sunderland there is a 70ft high monument that sits on a hill. For some bizarre reason it is a half-size replica of the Temple of Hephaestus. Why is there a Hellenic-style monument in this quiet corner of England? I don’t have an answer. But Penshaw Monument is such an iconic part of the landscape and a familiar sight to anyone from the area. Growing up I had a great view of it from my bedroom window so it always reminds me of home.

Visiting Penshaw Monument

The main reason people visit the monument is for the beautiful panoramic views of the area. On a clear day you can see views up to 50 miles away. It has some truly stunning views of the county. If you’re lucky the weather will be nice enough for you to see Durham Cathedral in the far distance.

If you ever visit you may notice a mystery door in one of the corner pillars. Behind it is a staircase that will take you to the top of the monument for some even more spectacular views. It’s usually open on the weekends during the summer for a small fee of £5 (free for National Trust members) and the money goes towards the upkeep of the monument.

This experience hasn’t always been available to the general public. An investigation of an incident in 1926 where a teenager fell from the top ultimately closed access for decades after. With today’s health and safety there is no need to worry about climbing to the top of Penshaw Monument. You will have a guide and the capacity is limited. The reopening in 2011 was so popular with locals that on the day hundreds of people ended up being turned away!

A Brief History

Whilst there is nothing at the monument to commemorate this, it was initially built as a memorial for the 1st Earl of Durham. It’s official name is ‘The Earl of Durham’s Monument’ but I have yet to meet someone who calls it that. I wouldn’t be surprised if people didn’t even know it was a memorial!

Apparently, when the monument was first built the stones were a light yellow tint but today they look black. The reason for this is supposedly because they were darkened by the soot from the colliery that used to stand on Herrington Park. Personally I think leaving them this colour is a great tribute to the mining history of the surrounding villages.

There is also a strange piece of folklore associated with Penshaw Hill. The legend of the ‘Lambton Worm’ describes a monster that terrorised the locals, killing livestock and children. It’s a truly wild story that I remember learning about in primary school. But legend says the ‘worm’ was so huge that it could wrap itself around the hill several times. If you’d like to explore the surrounding area a little more, the National Trust has a ‘Lambton Worm trail’ for you to follow.

Other Activities in the Area

Once you’ve made the climb to the top and taken in the views, there are a few other things you can enjoy. Behind the monument lies Penshaw Woods which is a really great place to explore, especially during the summer months when the woods are alive with all kinds of nature. Herrington Country Park is also just across the road. It’s the largest park in Sunderland has some really great walking trails and a beautiful lake.

It’s understandable that the trek up the hill may make you hungry, so you could always grab a well-deserved bite to eat at the Penshaw Tea Rooms. It lies at the bottom of the hill and is very easy to find. It’s generally a very popular place and can sometimes be difficult to get a table, but the cakes and pies are delicious! It’s one of my favourite local places to eat. 

Visiting Penshaw Monument is certainly not a full day event, but if you’re in the area it’s a great place to check out for its extensive views. If anything just to reward yourself with cake at the Penshaw Tea Rooms after!